OPINION
We Need Cancel Culture in Fashion
By Leelou Reboh
Image: Getty/Jamie McCarthy/WireImage
Why does the industry keep on forgiving the same people for the same old mistakes? (Central Saint Martins accepted portfolio)
Have you ever experienced the heartbreak of discovering that your favourite designer has been the source of the most abhorrent controversy? And have you ever felt appalled by the lack of action and repercussions they then faced?
In the years I have been reading and learning about the fashion industry, I have often found myself disenchanted by the reality of those behind what I thought were the most splendid designs I had ever laid eyes on. Galliano, Lagerfeld, Wang, Dolce&Gabbana, Gvasalia, to name a few. These are the names of some of the most influential designers of the fashion industry, and, with just a simple Google search, masks fall and the most disturbing stories unravel.
What is cancel culture?
The knowledge of the wrongdoings in the fashion industry has become far more accessible with the rise of social media. We’ve learned that everything said, done, published, will be heavily scrutinised. The importance put on social media as a primary source of information and platform of debate has led to the emergence of many online phenomena, such as “cancel culture”. “Cancel culture” is defined as the mass withdrawal of support from public figures or celebrities who have done things that aren’t socially accepted today, according to Merriam-Webster.
From being observers, we have been given the power to express our opinions, and to have, as a collective, a concrete impact on the actions taken towards or by a certain public figure or another.
Cancel culture in the fashion industry
Fashion has become more accessible than ever. One can now get detailed insight into the latest industry news or catwalk shows in a couple clicks. Tom Ford spoke up about the impact of cancel culture in the fashion industry, arguing that “it made it harder to be creative as designers” out of fear of offending people with their work, and that it forced creatives to “think and rethink everything they did” for their designs or concepts not to be misinterpreted.
In very few cases, this statement might be applicable. However, this fear of cancellation, as expressed by Ford, just goes to show the unashamed awareness that one is engaging in an activity deemed extremely socially provocative and barely tolerable.
Full access to this traditionally exclusive and undisclosed content has allowed people to realise the lack of action taken towards influential industry personalities who have committed serious offences throughout their careers. Cancel culture has become a tool for the general public to take a stance, and for them to try to do what should’ve been done.
Recently, Balenciaga has been under fire after the release of their latest campaigns: one featured children holding teddy bears in BDSM-like attires, the other poorly hidden legal documents referencing “virtual child porn” in its set decor. People were outraged by this blatant lack of social awareness, accusing Demna Gvasalia of condoning pedophilia. The belated apology of the brand and its initial decision to sue the company hired to design the set decor instead of taking accountability for approving it, only sparked more controversy around the campaigns.
Image: Balenciaga
This wasn’t the first time that Demna had been in the spotlight for his provocative designs. Yet, no concrete action has been taken by those ruling the industry. Besides a temporary online backlash, and "#cancelBalenciaga” trending for some time, the designer never faced any sanction for his unacceptable behaviour. When others would’ve been cancelled, and blacklisted from the industry for these actions, Demna continues to thrive at Balenciaga. It has even been announced that he will present his next collection during this upcoming Paris Fashion Week.
Demna isn’t the only one who got by without any repercussions, despite the public’s attempt to cancel him and force him out of Balenciaga.
When Galliano’s antisemitic scandal broke out, causing him to lose his position at Dior, Anna Wintour herself helped him, leading him to collaborate with Oscar de la Renta only a few months later.
And despite Dolce&Gabbana’s well-known history of racism and homophobia, the designers seem to have been fully discharged of it, rising to fame again after sponsoring the Kardashian-Barker wedding.
Image: Ellen Von Unwerth
The fashion industry is flawed. If the public is the one speaking up about the need to hold influential figures accountable for their actions, the final decision always lies in the hands of those whose opinions determine the climate and future of the industry. The repeated actions of problematic public figures are concrete proof that they won’t and aren’t willing to change. Yet, they continue to be praised and supported by their peers.
The fashion industry is rooted in elitism and privilege, where those in power get away with anything they please. The time has come for it to change, and start taking action.
We need cancel culture in fashion, because there have been enough offences committed unspoken about. We need cancel culture in fashion, because it is the leader of culture, and we need culture to be guided by strong values and morals.
Bibliography
Meriam-Webster. Cancel culture. [Online]. [Accessed 21 January 2023]. Available from: https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/cancel%20culture .
Independent. Cancel culture makes it very “tough to be creative”, says Tom Ford. [Online]. [Accessed 21 January 2023]. Available from: https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/tom-ford-fashion-cancel-culture-b1955261.html .
Thumbnail images courtesy of Fashion Network FR, Getty Images, WWD