LFW AW24 Roundup

^{BTS Image of KNWLS: Jamie-Maree Shipton}

3 designers that left their mark during London Fashion Week's 40th anniversary.

40 years of London Fashion Week marks 40 years of the city being an incubator for young talent. From February 16 to 20, the latest generation of artists embraced the runway over the course of these anticipation-filled days, unabashedly showing the whole world who they truly are. From the British Fashion Council NewGen to the brilliantly creative off-schedule shows, the work of Momonary, KNWLS, and Sinéad O’Dwyer particularly made an impression.

Shangai-born brand Momonary kick-started this AW24 season nestled at the heart of City of London in the St-Mary-at-Hill Church, as the models strutted down the catwalk golden-faced and mono-lashed, their hair tightly knotted in twisted hairdos. For their runway debut in the city, Zeng Hue and Fu Fanding continued delving into their own youthful spirit to explore genderless femininity. Adorning both their male and female models in delicate flower appliqués and gem-bedazzled shirts, the collection drew inspiration from cartography and the first modern map published by Flemish cartographer Abraham Ortelius, transforming flowery embroideries into coordinates, and graffiti-like patterns into guiding lines. Mappa Mundi is more than an adventure. It is a journey in harmony with Nature, challenging the models-turned-explorers to face storms and blizzards in maxi rain-proof, heart-quilted jackets, as they hold onto the remains of their belongings in puffy tote bags. Finally coming to peace with themselves, and the world surrounding them, cropped worker jackets are traded for cotton button-downs, and billowy ballon skirts showcased in previous collections also make an appearance. In line with the overarching theme of scientific progress, the collection was created in collaboration with 3M and its “Thinsulate” insulation padding technology. Momonary wants us to think about the way we consume fashion, proving it is possible to preserve individuality and sophistication by opting for long-lasting, resistant garments. Amidst this harmony of earthy tones, even dresses are made to subsist through the wear and tear of time by using the raw fabrics and durable hardware.

^{Image courtesy of Momonary}

Against the industrial backdrop of the Truman Brewery in Shoreditch, KNWLS presented a collection of 80s flare and decadence. Swayed by the era’s power dressing, the silhouettes featured strong shoulders and drop-waist wrap coats worn on their own to emphasise plunging necklines. The word of the hour (or rather of the 10 minutes the show lasted) was obvious: power, power, power! KNWLS dresses powerful women, those who fear not to wear mesh capris and full-sequinned camp sets. (Sneaking in past security to make it into the show felt quite on brand after watching the collection). Elevating the raw materials to give it an (almost) authentic vintage allure, full-grain leather was given the label’s unique abraded finishes and a rich patina. Breaths were taken away, as corsets cinched waists and elongated busts. The thrill of textures was complemented by playful footwear with added accents of fleece and distressed denim, and handbags stood out with their silver metallic hardware. Matching sequinned camouflage long sleeves and midi skirts made an impression, as chunky chain necklaces designed in collaboration with New York-based jeweller Arielle de Pinto tied the looks into the retro 80s feel of the collection.

^{Image courtesy of Jamie-Maree Shipton}

It's official, TikTok trends made it to the runway! Sinéad O'Dwyer's bold take on office-core for her AW24 collection did not go unnoticed. Models strutted down the runway in tailored wide-leg trousers, juxtaposing knitted mesh halter neck tops over stretch poplin fitted shirts. Black and white was of course of the occasion, but pops of candy pinks and reds in the label’s signature criss cross playsuits kept the garments away from corporate dullness. However, what truly stood out at the show wasn’t the label’s signature shibari-inspired leotards and harnesses, but its front row guest. In continuity with her brand ethos, O’Dwyer took diversity within London Fashion Week a step further. Beyond casting plus-sized and disabled models to go down the catwalk, she collaborated with the non-profit organisation Hair&Care, making fashion shows inclusive for the blind and low-vision community. Three blind women were invited to take part in the behind-the-scenes of the collection, getting their hair done by the beauty team, and touching the clothes before they even made their way down the runway. All eyes on the guests of honour, they then sat FROW, experiencing the show through an audio-descriptive recording of the garments as they were presented. The diversity of the show truly felt like a genuine step towards inclusivity - contrary to some designers who seem to select a more diverse cast only to avoid later backlash - and amidst the current Ozempic craze, was a welcomed breath of fresh air from the returning obsession with unrealistic body standards of slimness. An initiative that was apparently well needed, as guests left with a smile on their faces, hopefully with a renewed sense of self-love and confidence.

^{Image courtesy of Rowben Lantion}

Now that London Fashion Week has come to a close, wrapping the celebrations in true fashion with the Perfect Magazine party, we are left eagerly waiting to discover what the young designers we’ll discover in September will have in store for us!

^{Thumbnail images courtesy of Momonary, Jamie-Maree Shipton, and Morgane Maurice}