A Journey To Heavenly Simplicity with Kim Jones

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The designer presented a collection of Sequinned 2-piece suits and square-straight neckline dresses

This Spring/Summer 2024 Couture collection, Kim Jones’s guests ascended to the doors of Heaven during the Fendi show at the Palais Brogniart in Paris. As a bright light illuminated the runway of glossy marble tiles, models emerged to a celestial violin soundtrack, composed by Max Richter.

In continuity with his last two Couture collections at Fendi, the creative director showcased a refined direction for the Italian Maison, highlighting sleek techniques and craftsmanship, rather than technical and structural innovation of the garments. Amidst this year’s Couture Week marked by maximalism, as seen at Jean Paul Gaultier with Simone Rocha at the helm of design, Pieter Mulier at Alaïa, or Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli, Jones provided the world of fashion with an escape to an El Dorado of design simplicity and cleanliness.

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Revisited elements from the Spring/Summer 2024 Ready-To-Wear collection, such as ribbed knit and crocodile-embossed leather, were elevated to Couture, and incorporated into the first looks of the show. A bra-like top, its structure reminiscent of Roman columns, was declined in a variation of garments, and was either worn by itself for a sensual statement, or layered over knitted dresses. Jones further implemented draping into his designs, so as to achieve movement and fluidity, as per his previous couple of collections. Successfully so, light organza fabrics floated swiftly to the rhythm of the models’ graceful jaunt down the runway.

^{Image courtesy of Estrop - Getty Images}

^{Image courtesy of Estrop - Getty Images}

Classic silhouettes retained a modern, sensual edge through a play of sheer and shine, echoing this season’s trend, and square-straight necklines made a point d’honneur to take classic to chic.

In true Kim Jones fashion, textures were played with to create a majestic trompe-l’oeil of fluffy feathers and glistening fur, and teeny tiny sequins embroidered onto suits, skirts and dresses, to create an iridescent silk-like sheen.

^{Image courtesy of Estrop - Getty Images}

^{Image courtesy of Estrop - Getty Images}

Letting the garments speak for themselves, accessories were minimal this season, apart from the occasional glimpse of silver in the pumps and earrings. The iconic Fendi baguette made it to the Couture runway with accents of fur, and Delfina Fendi experimented with a more futuristic style of jewellery design, adorning glasses with diamond frames.

The colours palette of the looks remained in line with Fendi’s usual neutrals, though the transition into evening gowns and garments was marked by a metallic blue feather, subtle-cowl-neck dress. 

Tans, plums, pinks and silvers seemed to reflect the aspiring elegance of the collection, keeping the overall tone classic yet elevated.

The final look, a reinterpretation of the first dress presented on the runway, covered in white sequins this time around, concluded the odyssey of the Fendi woman in elegance and simplicity. Through her many transformations, she egresses from this adventure asserted and confident. So does Kim Jones, as sends a clear message to his audience: he truly has found his voice at Fendi, and is more than ever ready for the steady journey ahead, taking the Maison to the next level of luxury and impeccable craftsmanship.

^{Image courtesy of Emmanuel Dunand - AFP via Getty}